Cutler and Co

Often coined one of Melbourne's best restaurants, Cutler and Co is one of Andrew McConnell's creations nestled in on Gertrude Street in Fitzroy.  With spectacularly designed lights (reminiscent of Tonka's) hanging in a spacious but trendy modern industrial setting, the décor of this venue seamlessly reflects its location. 

Being my first visit to this restaurant, ordering the 6 course degustation ($130pp) with matching wines ($85pp) wasn't an option - it was a necessity. 

Menu Selection

 

Bonito escabeche, fromage blanc and bottarga

 

Nettle soup, handpicked spanner crab and rye

 

Turbot, brown butter and pickled onion

 

Manjimup truffle and parmesan tart, dandelion

 

Braised short rub, smoked oyster and pepper sauce

 

Whipped ricotta cake, soft chocolate, sour cream and clementine

  

Before the degustation commenced, we were served a smoked cod soup.  Overpowered by the taste of fish, one sip of this soup was enough for many of the diners on my table.

Luckily the bonito escabeche, fromage blanc and bottarga was exceptional.  The fish was soft and silky and just melted in the mouth.  Paired beautifully with the crispiness of the wafers and the creaminess of the fromage blanc, its fresh flavours and vibrant colours made it a delightful start to the menu.  However, the nettle soup was not so much to my liking.  Whilst the crab was juicy and clearly cooked well,  the flavours of the nettle soup did not resonate with my taste buds (haunted by memories of stinging nettle perhaps?) - which is likely more reflective of my personal tastes than of the quality of the dish. 



Bonito, escabeche, fromage blanc and bottarga

Nettle soup, handpicked spanner crab and rye



 

Moist and flaky with a crispy skin, the turbot that came with brown butter and pickled onion was also cooked well. 

 



 

Turbot, brown butter and pickled onion

 

The Manijimup truffle and Parmesan tart was my favourite dish of the night. Deliciously rich and just oozing with flavour, it matched perfectly with the accompanying wine which cut through the richness of the dish.  However, had I not ordered the matching wines, this dish could have easily fallen into the "too rich" list.  The braised short rib was also very rich and, whilst the rib was perfectly cooked, with its earthy tones and astringent flavours (it felt a bit like I was eating crispy shrubbery), it was a unique experience for my taste buds.

 

Manjimup truffle and parmesan tart, dandelion

Braised short rib, smoked oyster and pepper sauce

As I am allergic to chocolate (outrageous but true!) Cutler and Co kindly replaced the whipped ricotta cake with an apple confit with burnt butter icecream and salted caramel.  The ice cream was smooth and creamy, however the overall dish  was surprisingly bitter.  My dinner companions, however, raved about the whipped ricotta cake - one person even said that it was the best desert they have ever had. 

Whilst the staff were knowledgeable and friendly, they weren't overly attentive - taking longer than I would have expected for them to take our order and to offer us a glass of wine.  The Sommelier's selection of matching wines were, however, exceptional.  Whilst there is an option of a premium selection ($125), the classic selection ($85) was more than satisfactory and went well beyond my expectations, offering a delectable (and very generous) range of local and international wines. 

As a Melbourne institute, it is a given that Cutler and Co should be on most peoples' To Do Lists.  Whilst it is not the New Fave, I do look forward to returning to this restaurant at some point to try a different degustation menu.

Service: 4/5
Food: 4/5
Décor: 4/5
Total: 12/15
Verdict: Love - rush out and try it soon